When to Use 50 Gallon Water Chiller？

How an Aquarium Chiller Works

Most aquarium chillers use a vapor-compression method to chill your aquarium water. While the science behind this process can be a little complicated, it is a good idea to understand the basic principles and components in order to properly operate and maintain the chiller.

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The diagram above represents the basic parts found on common aquarium chillers and we've outlined the functions below in order to help you better understand exactly how your aquarium chiller works.

1. Aquarium water is pumped into the chiller and enters the heat exchange. Inside the heat exchange, aquarium water flows around a series of cool metal coils filled with refrigerant. This is where heat is transferred from your aquarium water into the refrigerant.
2. The heated refrigerant is compressed and changes from a liquid into a gas inside the compressor. The pressure created inside the compressor is what moves the refrigerant through the cooling system.
3. The gaseous refrigerant is sent into the condenser from the compressor via pressure. A fan blows air over the condenser cooling the refrigerant inside and expelling heat into the atmosphere around the chiller. This is why it is important to place your chiller in a well-ventilated area. This process is similar to what happens in the radiator in your car.
4. As the refrigerant passes through the condenser, it is cooled and transformed back into a liquid.
5. Refrigerant from the condenser passes through an expansion valve which reduces pressure inside the refrigerant line controlling the rate at which the aquarium water is cooled inside the evaporator or heat exchange.
6. A temperature controller monitors the temperature of your aquarium water and automatically switches the chiller ON when the temperature rises and turns it OFF when temperatures are within a suitable range. The temperature controller is built into most chillers but sometimes sold separately depending on the brand of the chiller.

Choosing The Right Chiller Using BTU

Choosing an aquarium chiller is not only about how much water your aquarium holds, you should also consider how much of a temperature drop you need to achieve and the air temperature around the chiller.  A chiller that only needs to drop the water by 3-5°F does not require as much power as a chiller working to cool the water by 10-15° F. Additionally, warmer ambient air temperatures (above +/- 75° F) around the chiller itself will reduce the cooling power. If the ambient air is too hot, (above 78°F) the chiller may not be able to cool at all. 

With that in mind, there is a simple calculation or general rule we can use to estimate how much energy will be required to reach the desired temperatures in our tanks using BTU - British Thermal Units.  Most chiller manufacturers will provide a BTU/hr rating for their chillers which is how much heat energy (BTU) the chiller can remove per hour. Keep in mind, this formula doesn't account for additional sources of heat and assumes the chiller is placed somewhere with reasonable air temperatures around 70°F. 

BTU - British Thermal Units: Unit of measure that indicates how much power is required to heat one pound of water by one degree F. One gallon of water weighs roughly 8.3 lbs. 

With this information, we can estimate it will require roughly 8.3 BTU/hr to chill one gallon of aquarium water by 1° F. So if you have a 10-gallon aquarium, that will require a chiller capable of 83 BTU/hr to drop the water by 1° F or 416 BTU/hr for a drop of 5° F.

1. Always reference the manufacturer's recommended maximum tank size ranges but more importantly find out the BTU/hr rating for the chiller.
2. Estimate how much of a water temperature drop you need to achieve.*
3. Multiply your tank size in gallons by 8.3. Then multiply that by the number of degrees you need to drop. 
   • (Water volume x 8.3) x #° temperature drop = Appropriate BTU/hr rating

For example, in a 55-gallon aquarium that needs to drop by 4°F to reach the suitable temperature range of 78°F:

• 456.5 BTU/hr x 4-degree drop = A chiller rated for at least 1,826 BTU/hr 

To make the math easy and be 100% certain you're getting a strong enough chiller, it is best to round up to 10 BTU/hr per gallon of aquarium water for a 1°F drop and use the same formula to estimate the size of the chiller.  It's always better to slightly oversize your chiller as opposed to undersize because an undersized chiller will operate far less efficiently.

Using the same example, in a 55-gallon aquarium that needs to drop by 4°F to reach the suitable temperature range of 78°F:

• 550 BTU/hr x 4° drop = a chiller rated for at least BTU/hr 

*Manufacturers usually recommend the MAXIMUM tank size but the reality is, it all depends on exactly how many degrees you need to drop the water temperature and the amount of heat your equipment is adding. In a real-world scenario, most tanks that actually need a chiller won't operate any hotter than 83-84° F with the lighting ON and the pumps running. That means a maximum drop of 6° F to reach the suitable tropical water temperatures of 78°.

Do I Really Need a Chiller?

With modern-day LED lighting and DC-powered water pumps, most aquariums placed in a temperature-controlled household probably won't require a chiller. Keeping ambient air temperatures around the tank somewhere around 70°-72° F year-round tends to be sufficient.

AC-powered pumps, metal halide, and high-output fluorescent lighting transfer heat into the aquarium water and used to be the biggest reason home aquarists found the need to use chillers; all of which are dated technologies in modern aquaria. So thanks to modern aquarium technology using less electricity and operating at cooler temperatures, most tropical reef aquariums won't require the use of a chiller. If they do, the necessary drop in temperature is minimal.  

Contact us to discuss your requirements of 50 Gallon Water Chiller. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

If you plan to keep cold water animals at water temperatures in the low 70s or 60s, a much stronger chiller would be appropriate. 

Quick Tips

Aquarium water chillers, as their name implies, are aquarium water temperature control units designed to keep aquariums from "over heating" amid hot lights and warmer weather. Nearly every piece of aquarium equipment can radiate heat into your aquarium. Combine this fact with hot summer weather and you'll be hard pressed to keep your aquarium water temperature from rising beyond the "safe zone."

Overly warm aquarium water can directly affect temperature-sensitive inhabitants but can also jeopardize the overall health of the aquarium by limiting dissolved oxygen content. Learn how aquarium chillers work and why you may need one to help decrease water temperature.

How Aquarium Water Chillers Work
If you're considering a reef aquarium or have an aquarium with rising water temperature, it's time to learn more about water chillers. These modern cousins to the dorm room mini fridge help you keep your cool even as things heat up. Contrary to common belief, aquarium chillers lower water temperature by removing heat rather than "chilling" or creating cold.

Similar in function to refrigerators or air conditioners, aquarium water chillers rely on a refrigerant that is compressed and chilled within its internal plumbing. As warm aquarium water flows past the chilled portion of the heat exchange system, heat is drawn out and transported to the radiator grill. There, heat is released into the ambient environment with the aid of a ventilation fan.

Who Needs to Chill?
Aquarium water chillers help maintain stable aquarium water temperatures even as other environmental factors want to warm up your water. Designed for convenient water temperature control, all you need to do is set your optimum temperature on the water chiller unit using the built-in thermostat control.

If your aquarium setup is affected by the following factors, you should consider getting a water chiller:

• High output lighting or Metal Halide lighting
• Poor air or water circulation
• Direct sunlight
• Warm weather/climate
• History of fish/coral problems

Which Chiller is Right for Me?
Aquarium water chillers are available in two basic styles: In-line or drop-in. The main difference between the two is the manner in which aquarium water comes into contact with the heat exchange system. In-line chillers use an internal heat exchange system. As such, they rely on water pumps to actively transport warm aquarium water to the heat exchange system and carry the cooled water back into the main system. These chillers require plumbing and installation should be incorporated into the overall aquarium plan prior to execution.

In contrast, drop-in chillers have an external heat exchange system or probe (cooling element). The probe is placed into the sump area of wet/dry filters and comes in direct contact with warm aquarium water. While the chiller does not require any additional plumbing, a properly sized return pump is essential to ensure efficient transport and circulation of cooled water back into the main aquarium system.

Tips for Selecting the Right Water Chiller

• When selecting an aquarium water chiller, in addition to aquarium size, take into account the number of aquarium equipment you employ such as water pumps and lighting fixture. These additional devices generate excess heat that can reduce chiller efficiency.
• If your aquarium falls on the upper end of chiller recommendations, choose the next larger chiller. For example, if you have a 50-gallon aquarium and the chiller is rated for aquariums up to 50 gallons, then select the next size up to ensure adequate cooling.

Tips for Optimizing Water Chiller Performance

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