Internal wall insulation: What are the Pros and Cons?

First things first, internal wall insulation is generally only a route to consider for certain homes. Solid wall homes made from solid stone or brick, usually built before the 20th century tend to be the main candidates for this type of insulation.

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For houses after this time, there's often a cavity wall as part of the home's construction, offering the opportunity to use cavity wall insulation to improve the thermal efficiency of the fabric of your home.

Your options when it comes to insulation for solid-wall homes extends to both external and internal wall insulation. While the latter tends to be cheaper, it also eats into valuable floor space, making it worth careful consideration.

But it's effect on your home's space isn't the only thing to consider. Internal wall insulation changes the fabric of your home, and can, if not employed properly, cause issues such as damp and condensation.

Here, we explore the pros and cons of this type of insulation, and look at how to make the most of it without creating problems for your home.

What is Internal Wall Insulation?

Internal wall insulation involves the application of insulation to the interior face of external walls in order to improve the thermal performance of the property.

There are four main methods of installation — the most common (but not always the most effective) is building a new stud wall, to which insulation can be added.

Internal wall insulation can, however, be disruptive and require the removal and re-fixing of items such as switches, radiators and kitchen units, so you need to be sure it is the best insulation solution for your home.

Creating an airtight layer is vital, so awkward areas, such as reveals and floor voids, require particular care.

How Much Does Internal Wall Insulation Cost?

The generally accepted cost for internal wall insulation is between £40 and £50/m2 — but it can reach over £100/m2 when a new stud wall is built.

The cost of internal wall insulation will vary according to the type of insulation specified and the condition of the existing wall.

There are grants available for internal wall insulation for solid walls for qualifying households under the government's ECO scheme.

Internal wall insulation is much cheaper than external wall insulation, in some cases less than half the price.

What Building Regulations Apply for Internal Wall Insulation?

The Building Regulations stipulate certain requirements when it comes to airtightness and heat loss that need to be achieved in order for your home to be compliant.

The U-value of a material is the rate at which heat (in watts) is lost through each square meter of the surface. A lower figure means better thermal performance.

• An uninsulated cavity wall will have a U value of around 1.5W/m2 and there will also be a relatively high level of cold bridging due to the cavity ties
• A solid 225mm brick wall will be around 1.9W/m2
• A solid stone wall will be around 1.7W/m2 to 1.4W/m2 (depending on the thickness)
• Current Building Regulations require a maximum U value of 0.3W/m2 and realistically 0.2W/m2. Achieving that U value for solid walls will mean installing at least 100mm of rigid insulation (Celotex, Kingspan or similar)

It has been well established that improving airtightness has a greater impact on heat loss than insulation. The solid elements of the wall will naturally be fairly airtight — but it is the gaps, cracks and penetrations that can be problematic.

These tend to occur as much in awkward places, such as floor/ceiling voids, below the ground floor, the first floor ceiling, as on the accessible areas of the wall. The insulation applied to the wall can form the airtight barrier, but the benefit will be reduced by up to 50% if the gaps, cracks and penetrations are not also dealt with.

Does Internal Wall Insulation Cause Damp?

The dew point is the point where air meets a temperature that causes the moisture to condense out as water. Internal wall insulation will tend to keep the wall at external ambient temperature and thereby draw the dew point towards the internal surface.

If the dew point is too close to the internal surface of the existing wall, moisture can be absorbed by the insulation and appear as damp patches on the plasterboard.

To help prevent damp penetration, a vapour control layer will need to be installed. The internal surface of an insulated wall will tend to be warmer, reducing the likelihood of condensation forming, but there will be areas – such as where an external wall meets an internal wall – that remain cold.

There is a distinct risk of condensation forming in those areas, typically in high-level corners. Overcoming this typically means extending the insulation to cover that cold bridge.

How do I Install Internal Wall Insulation?

There are three basic methods of installing internal wall insulation (and one alternative method which we will also cover), but the process is broadly the same for all three:

• Check the condition of the wall and undertake remedial work
• Ask the preferred insulation manufacturer to check where the dew point will occur with the preferred thickness of insulation
• Decide on which of the three methods will be best (as below)
• Decide how to deal with reveals, floor voids and other potential cold bridges
• Remove everything fixed to the walls to be insulated — plug sockets, light switches, curtain rails, radiators, pipes, skirtings, covings, kitchen cabinets, fitted wardrobes, etc
• Carry out any preparation work to the wall (i.e. knocking off old plaster if damaged)
• Build the new stud wall (if required) and/or fix insulation
• Seal joints and skim plasterboard to finish
• Reinstate light switches, plug sockets, etc

1. Fix insulation directly to the wall

The first option for installation is whereby the insulation is fixed directly to the wall. Kingspan and Celotex offer products specifically designed for this method, with insulation bonded to plasterboard and with a vapour barrier.

If the wall is relatively flat and in good condition, this can be an effective, quick method. Boards can be glued directly to the wall with an adhesive specific for the purpose. Mechanical fixings (screws) can also be used, if necessary. Gaps between boards, at the ceiling and floor edges, should be filled with mastic and taped over before plaster skimming to ensure continuity of the vapour barrier.

Ensuring a continuous, unperforated vapour barrier is the only effective way of dealing with a dew point that occurs in the wall.

These are expensive products, but this is offset to some extent by the speed of installation.

The problem with this method is refixing heavy items such as kitchen cabinets, and hanging pictures, mirrors, etc. Special fixings are available for this but, over time, it can become a headache.

2. Battening the wall

The second option is to batten on the wall. There are two ways of doing this:

• Fixing battens to the wall to provide a more even fixing for the insulation
• Or, fixing the battens over the insulation, known as the ‘warm batten’ method. Both would use 25x50mm battens

The first method is the more common and, when the wall is very uneven, can be the best option. However, the insulation will be rigid and is screwed to the battens, inevitably leading to perforations in the vapour barrier.

The warm batten method is less common but it has some distinct advantages. In this method, a semi-rigid wool batt is placed against the wall. Appropriately spaced battens are placed on top and screws driven through the batten, through the insulation and into the wall.

Rigid or semi-rigid insulation can then be installed between the battens with plasterboard then installed. The advantages the warm batten method offers is that the battens are kept warm by the insulation and so are less likely to rot; the battens are accessible directly below the plasterboard and so pictures can be hung with more ease; and extra battens can be installed to allow heavier items such as kitchen cabinets to be refixed.

3. Construct a new stud wall

Option three involves constructing a new stud wall, generally 100mm thick inside the existing wall, with a 40mm cavity between the two. This option takes up more floor space than the other options.

It is also more expensive and no more effective, except in the case of very damp walls. The cavity between the new stud wall and the existing wall must be ventilated to the exterior so any moisture can be carried away, but this then impacts on airtightness.

4. Apply insulating plaster

There is a fourth internal wall insulation option: applying an insulating plaster directly to the wall.

This is most useful on stone walls, where breathability is important. This would involve either a hemp or cork-lime mix (the hemp or cork providing the insulation) or layers of lime plaster sandwiching a cork or woodfibre board.

This option will not get the desired U-value – typically around 0.5W/m2 is the best you will get – but it has a few distinct advantages:

• It significantly improves airtightness by sealing all the cracks and gaps
• It provides a warm internal surface
• And most importantly, being breathable, it prevents and damp patches

How to Prepare a Wall for Internal Insulation

The condition of the wall’s surface and whether the wall is damp will need to be addressed before installation. The surface condition will determine what preparation work is needed — principally if the old plaster needs hacking off. It will also determine:

• if insulation can be fixed to the wall with adhesive
• whether mechanical fixing will be needed
• if battening is necessary to give a flat surface

Insulation can make a damp wall worse by reducing the temperature of the wall and by reducing (or eliminating) air movement across its internal surface.

There are only two ways of dealing with a damp wall: creating a stud wall with a cavity between the insulation and the existing wall, or finding the cause of the damp and eradicating it.

When it comes to the latter, if you believe that rising damp is a myth, then options other than installing a damp-proof course need to be explored. Damp could be caused by rain penetration through the wall itself — in which case internal insulation would be a mistake. It might be a leaky gutter, downpipe or overflow, which is easy to fix. It could be that the external ground levels have been built up above those of the interior wall levels.

What Kind of Insulation Should I use for Interior Walls?

What is most suitable will vary with the application, and a bit of research will be needed to find the best solution for your home.

• Rigid foam boards of insulation (such as Kingspan or Celotex) are better insulators than the alternatives and so they are thinner and take up less floor area. They can also incorporate a vapour barrier. But they are more expensive and might not tick breathability boxes on your checklist.
• Mineral wools such as Rockwool or Knauf are widely used. These tend to be available as semi-rigid batts or quilts.
• Natural materials such as sheep’s wool, woodfibre insulation or cork (try Ty Mawr) are good options for people looking for good levels of breathability and those interested in the eco-credentials of a product. Natural materials do not ‘gas-off’ (release toxins) either.
• Thin insulation: It is the floor voids, reveals and returns that need particular attention to ensure continuity in the insulation and eliminate cold bridges. Generally, thinner materials are needed here and there is a selection available — from paints such as Therma-Coat Acrylic Insulating Primer to aerogels like Spacetherm.

Is it Worth Insulating Internal Walls? 

Internal wall insulation presents its own set of problems. It is cheaper than external wall insulation – up to 50% less – but less effective, potentially more problematic and more disruptive, certainly if the house is being occupied while the work is going on.

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Perhaps the way to look at it is that it is better than doing nothing and it has a better payback than external wall insulation, which possibly makes it worthwhile overcoming the problems it presents.

Pros:

• It is cheaper than external wall insulation (up to 50% less)
• It might be the only option if you can not insulate externally (if you are in a conservation area for example)
• There are options where breathability is a concern

Cons:

• It is less effective than external wall insulation
• It is more likely to cause damp problems (so needs careful planning)
• You will lose internal floor area
• It is a more disruptive process (you may need to move out of the rooms being worked on)

How Much Floor Space Will I Use With Internal Wall Insulation?

The thickness of internal wall insulation varies from brand to brand, but you can expect it to be anywhere from 60mm to 100mm — largely, the more expensive the insulation, the thinner its profile. You should expect to lose at least 100mm on each wall when insulating interior walls.

Hi,

Appreciate this has already been discussed on other topics, which I’ve read and tried to understand but I’m fairly new with this and was hoping to get some advice for our particular situation.

We are having a builder do some retrofit work as part of an extension project, including swapping boiler for ASHP, MVHR and UFH downstairs. The property is a s semi that has already had an extension previously. Both the previous extension and new extension has CWI. The original property has I believe blown in CWI, but the builder has said that this is with rockwool and is patchy.

The options suggested to us are:

1. Internal wall insulation either using insulated plasterboard (builder), or insulated plaster (architect) on the gable wall. This would cover all the gable wall downstairs, but not between floors and not in the bathroom/bedroom parts of the upstairs (so maybe only 1/3rd coverage). We’d lose maybe an inch on the inside of the gable wall which is mildly inconvenient at worst.

2. Fix the cavity wall insulation - potentially with bonder beads, but would have to clear the cavity first. Would probably need a survey to determine what the situation is.

3. External wall insulation, after making sure the cavity is closed with air pressure tests.

Our questions are:

1. Should we be looking to do one, two, or maybe all 3 of the options? Or are there diminishing returns? If doing both EWI and IWI are there extra considerations to make them compatible (think I saw something about an overlap…?)

2. Having read some of the discussions on IWI it seems like there are risks with it in terms of moisture/thermal bridging - we’d be relying on the builder to make sure that these risks are mitigated, but is it worth the hassle?

3. Is it silly to only improve the gable wall insulation - will it all just leak out the front/back instead?

4. Is it worth improving the CWI if it’s patchy or is this not a huge problem? Is EWI less effective if patchy but not air flowing through?

5. For EWI if it’s just the gable wall are there extra considerations on the corner edges to ensure it’s water tight?

Are there other questions/info we should be looking at? We were hoping to be guided by the architect/builder on this, but there seems to not be a consensus so it comes back to us to make a decision on what we want (which is a nebulous ‘good’ amount of insulation for not too much money and that can be achieved as part of the original building project)

Thanks, sorry for rambling!

From one Tim to another, welcome to the forum.

Unfortunately your last point is spot on. There is no definitive answer and the final choice is down to you. Members of this forum have done any combination of your choices or done years of research and still not done any. What they mostly have in common is that their research and training sessions they have attended have all been focused on their case and their homes. You need to take that into account when reading their sometimes conflicting advice.

You are correct that an overlap is recommended between EWI and IWI. This is to avoid thermal bridging at the (non-)join. IWI can be implemented with more or less any condition of cavity other than wet. EWI needs as a minimum a sealed cavity and at best a fully insulated one. My first cavity walled property had two airbricks roughly opposite each other but not aligned, so sealing the cavity would have been quite an undertaking. I put foam CWI into that one and ended up with an uninsulated patch between the airbricks. Incidentally, foam insulation has a bad press but is perfectly good in its niche.

My preference is for EWI, which I don’t have yet as I need to wait for my council’s planning policy to become more energy focused. I could have just gone for IWI instead but decided to wait it out and get on with other measures in the mean time. The house needs major work to its rendered walls and some of the EWI costs can come from the maintenance budget.

Extensive use of both internal and external insulation on the same wall is not recommended without specialist help and surveys as you could easy inhibit “breathability” of the wall fabric, however I had no qualms about insulating inside fitted wardrobes to prevent cold walls and air in the confined area leading to damp and potentially mouldy clothes. The insulation will remain in place after EWI is fitted.

Please provide yet more detail about your house.
Semi or detatched?
Exposure to wind and rain?
State of brickwork and pointing or render?
Frequency of subzero temperatures?
Is the MVHR in place yet?
Permeability of current wall coverings, in and out?

Ok. So currently you have a permeable wall. You also have a good, accidental, opportunity to check for moisture and integrity of the inner leaf. If anything needs fixing get it done now.

As you have reached this point it does swing the balance towards IWI, as you need to resurface the inside of the wall anyway. You mentioned in your original thread that IWI would not go below the floor or between stories. Why not? You could trim back the ceiling plaster and floor boards and take the insulation from DPM to abutting the floor above, to be picked up when that room is done.

Assuming that a s house had dot and dab it was as well to strip it off before IWI. Wet applied plaster in good condition does not need removing first and gives a good base for insulation, provided all organic matter is first stripped off, such as paper, paste and wooden dowels used for fixings. You need to remove all “mould food”.

A bare brick or block wall needs parging first to smooth it and remove potential air pockets that would form behind the insulation. A good parge will also improve airtightness.

Currently we’re not having work done on the two rooms that also on the gable wall upstairs - one is used as storage during the work too, so makes it difficult to include in the project. The bathroom is above the kitchen which is currently gutted so could access the space between floors there, but the bedroom is above the hallway which currently has the ceiling intact.

Some electrical issues were discovered recently so work will have to be done in both rooms eventually - just might have to wait a while till we can move the stored things out into the other rooms upstairs first…

Do you know of any risks in having the IWI only partially covering the whole wall? Would it be that we have to do the remaining rooms with some urgency to avoid compromising the work already done, or is it just a case of it only being 50/60% (made up numbers) effective until complete?

I will get the builder to inspect the inner leaf with those questions in mind, if they haven’t already

Thanks

One of the beauties of IWI is that it can be done piecemeal as you do up each room, however the effect of what is already done is much less than the area covered, due to the heat that would have been lost through the treated bit of wall migrating to untreated areas. You also need to be extra careful about heating and ventilation near the edge of the insulation so as not to get condensation forming at the nearest points to the now colder section of outside wall. This is why an overlap is required with EWI, as the two insulation layers do not abut.

It is good that you are considering electrical work as that enables you to move all electrical fittings to internal walls.

Diathonite is a great product. It has been successfully used for EnerPHit projects and I think retrofit Passivhaus. Diathonite can be bought and applied exactly as plaster or you can get their installers to spray it on. The spray can be applied between wall and first parallel joist where manual application can be a problem. Paying for a crew to spray apply Diathonite probably isn’t worth while if only doing one room. It’s more a whole house approach.

You won’t need to parge if using Diathonite. The minimum depth is 2.5cm but it can be layered up to almost anything you want to reach a target U value. 2.5cm should be airtight. Being vapour open you are free to do virtually what you want (if anything) to the outside surface, by way of insulation and trim.

Insulated plasterboard is not so vapour open and needs careful application to be airtight at the joins. It is, however, a lot cheaper than Diathonite.

If using plasterboard I would be very cautious about coating the external surface of the wall.

You are correct about overlapping IWI & EWI. The recommended overlap is a minimum of 1m. This leads to awkward aesthetic choices, unless you happen to have a suitable feature one meter from the corner. I’m thinking of an alcove or chimney breast that you are retaining. The distance has been calculated previously based on the U value of a metre of brick wall.

They may not advertise as such but the age of the property is irrelevant to the rest process. I had a test of our house a few years ago. Built in , better than regulations. In other words, better than rubbish! 7 ach against 10 ach.

Anyway, to the point in hand, a CWI company could advise. You also ought to find out whether the cavity is shared with your semidetached neighbour although I don’t think that practice continued into the eighties.

If you can lie on the loft floor and see the cavity, then clearly it is open. Photos of such have been posted on this forum and my first cavity walled property was like that too.

Thermal images can also help, taken at dawn on a cold winter’s day with a well heated house.