Questions You Should Know about Volvo Clutch
Clutch pedal question | Turbobricks - Turbobricks
I just bought a manual 86 240DL that had the 5 speed trans swapped in to replace the factory 4 speed with o/d.
The question is this, the clutch pedal engages the clutch when pressed down about an inch. The pedal however can be pressed down to the floor. The throw seems a bit long and unnecessary. Is this common in volvo's? This is my first m/t volvo. So I don't really have a comparison to other m/t volvos.
Does the clutch cable just need to be adjusted or replaced? Or do you think it's the clutch and/or pressure plate?
The gears all engage and don't grind or pop out. And the pedal DOES need to be pressed a bit to engage the gears.
Of course the answer could be just not to press down all the way, but I'm use to full pressing in the clutch to engage gears like with my MK2 GTI and E30 BMW.
I drove the car 400miles home from Rochester NY the first day I bought her. Didn't slip at all on the hilly and steep interstate down to Brooklyn NY.
The previous owner said he used an 89' parts car for the transmission donor car. I'll try to get under the car and check soon. The car is my weekend/holidays car, so it's not a HUGE issue for the travel of the pedal. I will try to adjust the clutch cable to move the engagement further down in the throw. The M47 clutch set up has that feel. It always bugged me. The M46 uses a return spring to pull the clutch fork back which results in the pedal having ~ 1-2 inches of free play before the throw out bearing starts to engage the clutch cover release levers/diaphram spring. On the M47 clutch, there is no return spring. There is a counter weight that does who knows what. The clutch is adjusted so there is no free play in the pedal. That results in a clutch that disengages in the first 3 inches of pedal travel and still has another 4-5 inches of travel until the pedal bottoms out against the floor. All that said, if you look under your car and see a cast iron counter weight at the end of the release fork right where the cable attaches, all the proper parts for the M47 set up have been installed and your clutch is going to have that goofy feel. It is normal, per say.
Anyway to remedy this? Or should I just learn to keep my goofy size 12 foot from mashing the pedal all the way down and learn to just feather it.
You can do what I always do, buy a return spring and hook it to the fork. Then, adjust the clutch the way it "should" feel. IPD and FCP Groton both sell the return springs for ~ $3.
If you don't do that, you might ned up frying your throwout bearing on a long road trip. My fork wasn't fully retracting, never caused an issue for seveal years, took a really long continuous road trip and the thing fried from being held very lightly against the pressure plate.
^^
This is what I don't like about the "stupid" M47 clutch design. There is no indication of when the clutch needs to be adjusted. It's easy to be driving around "frying" the throw out bearing thinking everything is just fine. Can't speak for M47, but you can adjust the M46 such that the engagement/release point is roughly an inch above the floor, but that's how I like to set it up.
As a result of being too cheap to put on that $2 spring, I still drive with the habit of resting my left foot under the clutch pedal to keep the TO bearing off the pressure plate's spring. :self-facepalm:
The question is this, the clutch pedal engages the clutch when pressed down about an inch. The pedal however can be pressed down to the floor. The throw seems a bit long and unnecessary. Is this common in volvo's? This is my first m/t volvo. So I don't really have a comparison to other m/t volvos.
Does the clutch cable just need to be adjusted or replaced? Or do you think it's the clutch and/or pressure plate?
The gears all engage and don't grind or pop out. And the pedal DOES need to be pressed a bit to engage the gears.
Of course the answer could be just not to press down all the way, but I'm use to full pressing in the clutch to engage gears like with my MK2 GTI and E30 BMW.
Just wondering what 5spd box you have? And what motor {flywheel type} some missmatching might be the cause. It sounds like it should be slipping if so much travel is surplus on the peddle stroke.
I drove the car 400miles home from Rochester NY the first day I bought her. Didn't slip at all on the hilly and steep interstate down to Brooklyn NY.
The previous owner said he used an 89' parts car for the transmission donor car. I'll try to get under the car and check soon. The car is my weekend/holidays car, so it's not a HUGE issue for the travel of the pedal. I will try to adjust the clutch cable to move the engagement further down in the throw. The M47 clutch set up has that feel. It always bugged me. The M46 uses a return spring to pull the clutch fork back which results in the pedal having ~ 1-2 inches of free play before the throw out bearing starts to engage the clutch cover release levers/diaphram spring. On the M47 clutch, there is no return spring. There is a counter weight that does who knows what. The clutch is adjusted so there is no free play in the pedal. That results in a clutch that disengages in the first 3 inches of pedal travel and still has another 4-5 inches of travel until the pedal bottoms out against the floor. All that said, if you look under your car and see a cast iron counter weight at the end of the release fork right where the cable attaches, all the proper parts for the M47 set up have been installed and your clutch is going to have that goofy feel. It is normal, per say.
The M47 clutch set up has that feel. It always bugged me. The M46 uses a return spring to pull the clutch fork back which results in the pedal having ~ 1-2 inches of free play before the throw out bearing starts to engage the clutch cover release levers/diaphram spring. On the M47 clutch, there is no return spring. There is a counter weight that does who knows what. The clutch is adjusted so there is no free play in the pedal. That results in a clutch that disengages in the first 3 inches of pedal travel and still has another 4-5 inches of travel until the pedal bottoms out against the floor. All that said, if you look under your car and see a cast iron counter weight at the end of the release fork right where the cable attaches, all the proper parts for the M47 set up have been installed and your clutch is going to have that goofy feel. It is normal, per say.
Anyway to remedy this? Or should I just learn to keep my goofy size 12 foot from mashing the pedal all the way down and learn to just feather it.
Anyway to remedy this? Or should I just learn to keep my goofy size 12 foot from mashing the pedal all the way down and learn to just feather it.
You can do what I always do, buy a return spring and hook it to the fork. Then, adjust the clutch the way it "should" feel. IPD and FCP Groton both sell the return springs for ~ $3.
You can do what I always do, buy a return spring and hook it to the fork. Then, adjust the clutch the way it "should" feel. IPD and FCP Groton both sell the return springs for ~ $3.
If you don't do that, you might ned up frying your throwout bearing on a long road trip. My fork wasn't fully retracting, never caused an issue for seveal years, took a really long continuous road trip and the thing fried from being held very lightly against the pressure plate.
If you don't do that, you might ned up frying your throwout bearing on a long road trip. My fork wasn't fully retracting, never caused an issue for seveal years, took a really long continuous road trip and the thing fried from being held very lightly against the pressure plate.
^^
This is what I don't like about the "stupid" M47 clutch design. There is no indication of when the clutch needs to be adjusted. It's easy to be driving around "frying" the throw out bearing thinking everything is just fine. Can't speak for M47, but you can adjust the M46 such that the engagement/release point is roughly an inch above the floor, but that's how I like to set it up.
As a result of being too cheap to put on that $2 spring, I still drive with the habit of resting my left foot under the clutch pedal to keep the TO bearing off the pressure plate's spring. :self-facepalm:
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